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[引用]年份酒有感   

2009-11-19 12:54:14|  分类: 品红杂记 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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在葡萄酒标上乱标年份的现象至今仍然存在:

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

中华牌标在瓶上的1959,乃建厂的年号也!

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

长城酒标上的“since1992”字样让丈二和尚“摸不着头脑”

 

同样,有标“sinceXXXX”字样的国产葡萄酒还有龙徽“since1987”和龙徽“since1995”!”

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

手上这三个酒标,1998年上的“Reserve”字样,有“陈年”的意思;1995年的龙身有红色的“Since”字样;1996年的,却没有这些附加的字!

注:“since。。。。”的中文意思是“源自于。。。。”

 

且看下图的葡萄牙酒标,葡萄收割年份与建厂年号标的一清二楚:

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

酒庄徽标下方的年号Desde 1955(葡萄牙文:源于1955年),EST.1884 (葡萄牙文:创于1884年),而“2004”、“2005”才是葡萄酒的年份。

 

根据资料显示:

1946年,“北京上义洋酒厂”,正式向外出售葡萄酒。该厂解放后收归国有,1959年2月更名为“北京葡萄酒厂”并注册了“中华”品牌。1987年3月17日建立“北京龙徽酿酒有限公司”。

1958年 昌黎县果酒厂成立,1978年更名为“昌黎县葡萄酒厂”。1988年8月9 日正式成立为“中粮华夏长城葡萄酒有限公司”。

除了中华牌的1959是“北京葡萄酒厂”和中华牌商标年号,龙徽“since1987”也算是龙徽商标年号外,就真搞不懂华夏长城酒标上的“since1992”字样,和龙徽“since1995”是代表什么?

 

 ————————————————————————————

我曾经有很长的一段时间,是华夏长城的忠实酒客。在华夏长城(出口装)消失后。1999以后的年份开始在内销装酒标加注中文,品质感觉不如从前。在改喝没加注中文的小瓶装1998年份酒之后,甚至连我家小女都说难喝!

2004年的团年饭,价值26元澳门币的1996年葡萄牙“百事达”红酒,无论在口味,果香,层次方面都将1992年木盒华夏长城比了下去!只在柔润程度稍逊92’木盒长城。此瓶长城,乃正而八经的写着“1992”,而不是现在商场见到的“since1992”哦。只可惜另一瓶1992特级“百事达”红酒(当时只值65元澳门币)在早前就喝掉了,否则真想用它与之再做个AB对比品尝!

其实之前我并不熟悉这个“百事达”的酒,而Tomar也是葡萄牙一个相对较小产区,在澳门市场这个产区的酒占的份量几乎可以忽略不计。只是1998年的春节听了个Top Sales说“百事达”这个酒不错,相信了介绍就买了瓶Reseva1992的“百事达”来喝!现在再想起来,这酒真是没太注意和没留下一点印象。反而是比它低一班的V.Q.P.R.D.1996“百事达”在与92木盒长城做比较留下了深刻的印象。还能记得的是,当时一起买了三瓶酒:1992“百事达”花了65元,麻包1992年主教登花了88元,另外还有一瓶1994叫“阿玛珍”的红酒48元。Sales还特别提醒,“阿玛珍”的酒很“生”,开瓶后要等30分钟才能喝,而当时也不懂“生”是什么意思,喝的时候也照他说的做了,感觉橡木味比其他酒都重。买V.Q.P.R.D.1996“百事达”那是1998年的中秋节,去逛超市,发现1996年的“百事达”居然比1992年的便宜很多哦,要了,但想要多瓶都无货。这瓶酒买回来后却没喝,一直放在老屋,直到2004年的春节才将其报销掉。当我2004年底再去澳门的时候,专门想找个特级“百事达”,但已经再找不到有1995的酒,更别说1992了。。。。。

昨天,将放了2年的华夏长城(优质产区无年份)红酒喝掉了! 之前一直没把其喝掉的原因,是因为它没有年份! [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客   意想不到这瓶2003年装瓶的华夏长城,却是比那个小女都不喜欢的小瓶的出口装华夏长城要好得多!果香不错,带微酸,不涩。一点遗憾是柔润不足,略带少许盐类矿物质的味道。

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

左边是1996年葡萄牙“百事达”红酒,右边是1992特级“百事达”红酒

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

特级“百事达”、麻包主教登、阿玛珍

 

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

左边的是华夏长城(优质产区,无年份)红酒,右边华夏长城(无中文,出口装)

 

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

现在市售的普通华夏干红,不但加上中文,甚至连年份都以“精选级”字样替代。

 

 

————————————————————————————

  [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

[引用]年份酒有感
 2006-08-11  作者:孔卫国

  
  昨天在网上瞎逛,偶然搜索到一个英国某报社驻华记者的博客,他的其中一篇文章<The good(chinese)wine guide>引起我的注意,因为该文章所谈及的事情与某年份葡萄酒有关。今年一月份,这位记者去到内蒙呼市采访,住在一家政府宾馆里,有一天采访结束回到宾馆,他与一位同事去宾馆吧台喝酒,先是要了一瓶Great Wall‘98 (文中附有图片,但不清晰),感觉不错,于是还想要一瓶,可是吧台服务员告知没有了,最后他们只好又要了一瓶Great Wall‘92,品尝起来感觉和那瓶98差不多,没见好到哪里去。最后结帐时没有想到一共花去了1200多元。为此这位外国记者对92这瓶酒的真伪产生了怀疑,他在文章中特别注明目前DNA检验已经表明即使是葡萄酒也有造假:或者是把新酒装入旧瓶子里,或者是在瓶子上面贴上假商标。他发出感慨地说谁知道我们喝的那瓶92酒是真还是假,也许就是2002年生产的。
 
  看到这里使我联想到许多,那瓶92年份酒的真伪咱先别说,这件事情至少说明92年份酒还是有一定的的国际影响。或许大家还记得前几年因为92年份酒,国内闹得是纷纷扬扬:《华夏长城92的13年谜团》、《华夏长城92被指控不实》。并由此而带来国内对年份酒的大讨论。尽管随着时间的推移,风波还是逐渐平息了下来,但是事情的结局最终还是不了了之。不过据说国内权威部门为了从根本上解决年份酒的问题,已制订出有关新的产品标准,预计今年年内即颁布执行。可是颁布后又如何有效地去监督呢?目前国内尚无年份酒的技术鉴定手段,听说世界上只有一家公司有能力鉴定出葡萄酒的年份(当年被怀疑的年份酒的样品就是送往那家公司做鉴定的)。虽然国内已经有科研单位立项进行年份酒鉴定技术的研究,但毕竟目前尚不成熟,运用到实际中还有一段距离。
 
  尽管目前年份酒的舆论宣传没有前几年那么凶了,但是至今依然还有厂家在进行年份酒的炒作,网上还有销售“华夏92解百纳精品干红葡萄酒”,此外,如今树龄酒又开始走俏,据说还有130年的树龄酒出售。真不知道过了几年以后厂家(商家)又有何新的发明出现。

 

 [引用]年份酒有感  - casanouva - casanouva的博客

Richard Spencer

The good (Chinese) wine guide

Posted By: Richard Spencer at Mar 22, 2006 at 23:38:50 [General]

Posted in: Foreign Correspondents
Tags:

china
I have been challenged by my fellow Telegraph blogger David Rennie in Brussels to write about wine and when better than in the hazy afterlife of the Christmas season? 

A former correspondent here, David asks if there is, yet, such a thing as a good Chinese wine. The answer, in my experience, is yes, but that you need a Frenchman to find it for you.

On my own account, the only Chinese wine I have been able to rely on and I am no expert claret-swilling aficionado is the Dragon Seal red (cabernet sauvignon) provided at Wang Kao Ya (King Roast Duck - my favourite Peking Duck place in Jianguomenwai Dajie, for those that know Beijing).

Other than that, the odd bottle here and there is ok, but I have tried to repeat order without success with Great Walls, Dragon Seals, Yantais, Dynastys (actually, no good experiences to try to repeat with this one). And random choosing is, well, random.

That is, until I went to investigate a story with a couple of colleagues, including a Frenchman newly arrived in China. I met them in Baotou, a smoky, run-down industrial city in Inner Mongolia that is possibly the last place in the world where you would expect to find the luxuries of life.

I was on a different flight, and by the time I arrived at the restaurant where my friends were eating, the steaming Mongolian hotpot was half-gone but also, I noticed, they were on their second bottle of red.

Wine was in any case a brave choice without Bruno, we'd certainly have stuck to beer. And as I sat down and he poured me a glass with a slight smile, the table fell silent as if to say, let's see whether you are man enough to knock back Mongolian varnish-stripper as we can!

But I misjudged my friends: they were watching my face pop with surprise, as the smooth, warm, rich flavour slid down the throat. Less than four pounds a bottle. I have to confess, the second bottle that night was not the last.

Unfortunately, in my amazement, I never noticed what the bottle was exactly. The next night, after a fine day's reporting, we ended up in the provincial capital, Hohhot, another sprawling industrial town. We stayed in the Party's poshest hotel, which was even fitted out with a sort of cigar lounge, the only place serving food by the time we arrived. Bruno scanned the wine list, and chose a red Great Wall '98 at a decent price, and very palatable it was too.

We asked for a second (as I insist, before I met Bruno, I was a one bottle of Tsingtao-a-meal type) but, alas, mei you le (none left). What else do you recommend, he asked, perhaps naively, and we fetched up with a Great Wall '92, which was equally nice, if not better.

We paid, though. Literally. When the bill came, the meal turned out to be not the £15-20 we expected, but more like £115-20. 1,200 yuan (about £80-90) was more, I think, than I have paid for anything, ever, in China for a local wine too! And in case you are wondering, the bill was split and not put on expenses.

There's an important footnote. DNA tests have shown (I can't find the report now but if I trace it later I'll link to it) that even wine doesn't escape piracy here: new wine is put in old bottles, or at least given fake labels. Who knows what you are really getting, or whether our '92 wasn't in fact '02 after all?

For Christmas Day anyway we had Spanish Cava, Chablis, a claret and an Australian Shiraz. Mostly from a previously undiscovered, dusty shop near Lady Street in Beijing with a good collection of French reds.

Personally, I still think you're best off with French, whatever the fashion of the times, and can't believe it's not better marketed here. Or anywhere else for that matter. Recommendations of Chinese vineyards to prove....

 

 

 

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